PRESS COVERAGE:
Mining Journal
Fox 21
Mining Gazette
MQT Monthly

Journal Entry Final - The End

Two pairs of vagabonds unite! We finally caught up to Mindy and Shannon. And with our forces combined . . . our special powers are serious beach-bumming and severe snack-breaking. After meeting Mindy and Shannon in Wawa, Ontario, in the evening, we biked out of town in the fading dusk light, only to have an Ontario police officer clue us in as to where to camp illegally (thanks!). She was worried about us bicycling in the dark. It was our first night camping on a beach, but it wouldn't be the last. Strangely, Mindy and Shannon have a magical power: incredible weather all the time. No wind, no rain, but unfortunately, no moose. Ben and Andrew = wind, rain, and moose. We're okay with the trade-off, but the beautiful weather was a welcome change, as was the new company. We were able to break them down eventually, for on our final day and night of the trip, it rained the entire time and we had wind. But it wouldn't keep our spirits down. We sang in the rain, we went "jungling" in the rain (see photos of sand and mud trail), and we got soaked to the bone. We even saw two bears, sat around a fire in the rain with three Polish scientists, and Andrew chased off a raccoon from our camp with a slingshot after the animal tore through some mashed potato powder and popcorn. And after an excellent afternoon at the Falling Rock Cafe in Munising (what delicious coffee!), we made the final approach, a bittersweet one at that. The sweet was, of course, returning to beautiful Marquette to see all of our friends, along with the trail magic at the roadside turn-off (thanks for the drinks, Matt!), and the bitter was an end to an adventure. Life was certain to change upon our return.

Tally so far:

Bear - 3
Andrew's showers - 4
Ben's showers - more than Andrew's
Beach stops - yes!
Frisbee game and dolphin show with bicycle tire - 1
Raccoon attack - 1
Party with Polish scientists - 1
Miles walked through jungle mud - 4
Hours to walk through jungle mud - 4
Breweries - all of them (save a few in Duluth, for next trip)
Nights slept inside (including one of our favorites with Shannon's aunt and uncle - thanks Karen and Mike!) - 4
Total miles - 1495
Total days - 25
Kindness of strangers - infinite

Journal Entry June 28th - Minnesota and Canada!

As far as the trail is concerned, life is all about trade-offs. For example, you may be invited to a rustic cabin in the boundary waters with great friends (thank you Isabel and Stacy!!), a beautiful lake, a sauna, fresh homemade food, and a bed to sleep in, but you're going to have to bike 85 miles against 20mph winds. You may be visited by some of the friendliest Canadians (Jule, "the crazy Frenchman", and Alfederizio, the "I a-kill-a you" Italian) at your campsite who bring you beer and water, and who offer to cook you steak, but you're going to have to outrun a thunderstorm before dark because you stayed too late talking and laughing. Or you may have your first tailwind (15mph) providing you with a 20mph average for 40 miles, but the second half of the day will be filled with mile-long climbs and wind blowing in your face, pushing you back down the hills. Or you may have to stay indoors at a hostel and spend a bit more money than you had planned, but you'll get to meet a bunch of travelers from Europe and the Sleeping Giant Guesthouse owner, Gail, one of the warmest, most genuine and comical women we've ever met. Ah, the trail is all about compromise. Like it or not. We are approaching Wawa, Ontario, 1000 miles in! On to catch Mindy and Shannon.

Tally so far:

Total moose - 8
Bullwinkle - 1
Smiling porcupine climbing a tree - 1
Seemingly dull porcupine - 1
Poison ivy - 2
"Circle Tour" discount (because the bartender made fun of us for wearing matching flannels) - 1

Best bad decision: 30 mile "day" trip to Sleeping Giant Provincial Park after 5:30 pm Minus - 30 miles bike + 8 mile "extreme" hike + encroaching darkness + approaching storm Plus - one of the most beautiful views from the head of the Sleeping Giant

Worst bad decision: The "Champburger" challenge in Nipigon, Ontario Minus - 4 patty burger + 2 lbs of fries + large milk shake (all in 30 minutes)

Plus - still under investigation Question of the day: In a battle, 2 bald eagles vs. a handful of ravens? Bald eagles: huge talons Ravens: highly intelligent and clever
Answer in the form of the question per Andrew: Have you ever seen Chuck Norris take on a bunch of ninjas?

Journal Entry June 21st - Copper Harbor & West

The Lady: the name affectionately used to refer to Lake Superior. Perhaps because of the calm days and peaceful seas early on in the trip (including the ferry ride over to Isle Royale even though the weather was storming), we did not appreciate her power. However, this all changed on the ride back to the mainland. The deckhand claimed 3-4 foot waves (we don't have the experience to object), but the swells we hit offered views of complete water and complete sky, complete water, complete sky. A dozen or so passengers headed for the rear of the boat to get fresh air and escape the heat and nausea. Our stomachs held strong, but the mainland was certainly welcome. After our first night in Copper Harbor (before Isle Royale), filled with coincidental encounters with friends at the Mini-cabin (thanks for letting us squat Ryan, Dan, Mark, and Carrie), we decided to stay one more night, again, filled with a coincidental encounter. Not with friends this time, but with two emerging dragonflies perched around our fire-ring. A truly fascinating process. The sign was favorable, and our day back through the Keeweenaw was calm and overcast, perfect riding conditions. Another Calumet stop and more fortuitous encounters with Nevin and Evan from the QuickStop Bike shop (friends from Marquette), and we reached the Baraga State Forest. The morning came with sun and blue sky, but it only lasted a few hours. Yes, our top adversary had returned. Rain. What a prankster. The best thing about the rain: Andrew's Big Bird suit, or if he's feeling self-conscious, the Roxy burgers in Ontonagon. The worst thing about the rain: ripping your cheap child's size poncho (the only size remaining) on the first day because the head hole is too small. That's not to say the day was a wash, for we took the scenic route through the Porcupine Mountains, all wilderness and perhaps the toughest day of biking with all the hills. The Wakefield Campground came just in time. On from Wakefield, we toured a series of small U.P. and Wisconsin towns, towns unique and magnetic in their own ways. Coffee shops and book stores and artesian wells. Awesome. A quick game of paper-rock-scissor between the two of us led to a 22 mile push beyond our original campsite (yes, everything is a bit more fun with some friendly competition) in the rain and up a bunch of hills. The payoff: a campsite overlooking the Apostle Island National Lakeshore. Finally into Duluth! Our friend Stacy kindly took us wet strays in, gave us a quick but genuine taste of the great city, and we are off to Grand Marais, Minnesota, our rendezvous point with Stacy and her friend Izzie. Camping by the Boundary Waters in a cabin! Our days of roughing it have expired! Until tomorrow! And thanks to Nathaniel and Tracy from Fox 21 news and the brief piece they broadcasted on Sunday's 9 o'clock news!

Tally so far:

Tally: Bear - 2
Tick contest between Andrew and Ben: Andrew - 3; Ben - 0 (who's the winner?)
Nights of sleep awoken by what sounds like a bulldozer come to clear out our camp - 1
World cup games watched - 3 (yeah U.S.!) Flats - 2

Favorite Quotes:
"Bike Touring Rules!" Andrew after almost barreling into a bear
"Just ride between the drops." Roxy's waitress offering advice as we rode into six more hours of rain.
"Not as far as a 12-pack." Guy at bar offering his perspective on the distance to Wakefield.

Journal Entry June 11th - Isle Royale

First of all:  whatever the loons are doing on Isle Royale, the rest of the loons better get on board.  Isle Royale is perhaps one of the most beautiful places on earth, and the loons know it (and they certainly add to the allure from our perspective).  They are everywhere.  We arrived to the island in a cold, dreary mist, but the minute we stepped on land, we had no time to complain.  We met up with Cory, a friend working on the island for the summer, who conveniently had a canoe with him (tentatively named "The Funzy Newt").  A four day backpacking trip turned into a four day canoe/portage trip, and we spent our trip fat on fish (only due to the generosity of others and partially due to Cory) and sunburnt.  But the water was amazing, the wildlife teeming everywhere, and a bunch of other hiker/camper/fisherman who were happy to lend a story and to share a meal.  Thanks, Gary, Jerry, Al and crew, John and Shelly, for the potluck dinners and the stories!

Tally so far:

Moose - 6
Bald eagles - 5
Loons - infinity
Leech foot - 1
squirrel with apple - 1
charity meals - 2
slippery log falls - 1
rain days - 2
camp potluck dinners - 2
two-foot salamis - 2
cans of cheese-whiz - 3
suspicious wolf-sightings - 1
canoe-portage competitions for Starbursts - 1

Bike on!
Andrew and Ben

Journal Entry June 8th - The Keweenaw

What happens when you proclaim good weather?  Rain.  Rain, rain, rain, rain.  We awoke in Hancock to an overcast sky and foreboding thoughts of, what exactly, a full day of rain.  Fortunately, we were not surprised and rode up to Copper Harbor in rain.  After a nice (this is putting it nicely) lunch at the Michigan House in Calumet (meaning the best lunch ever), the rain slackened slightly and the chill left our bodies.  Luckily, Andrew wore his Big Bird rain costume (photos to come) which provided plenty of afternoon entertainment.  And the humans we've met!!  The best part of the journey. . . .  Thank you, Dick and Doug for the free shower tip on the Nara boardwalk--showers are always in short supply.  Thank you, teenage BMX dudes, for all the camping tips and for offering your friend's backyard even when he visibly (but silently) protested.  Thank you, Mike and Tom and Annie and Katie Jo, for being sweet humans.  And Barbara, even though you didn't give us the RV camp site at the price of a tent site even though no one had occupied it and even after us putting on 30 seconds of our heaviest charm, we forgive you.

And thanks to all who are following the trip!!  We appreciate your support!!

Tally so far:

Bear sighting - 1

Near bear/bike collision and missed bear sighting for Andrew due to daydreaming - 1

2 wheel love (motorcycles!!) - 3

Bald eagles - 2


Bike on!
Andrew and Ben

Journal Entry June 3rd - The Beginning

If there are two things that the Upper Peninsula lacks not, they would have to be micro breweries and awesome geography.  After two days out (~ 100 miles), we arrived to Houghton to cool down at the Library (but not the one we're typing this from).  The weather has been more than generous, and the miles have flown by.  We've seen loads of wildlife, took a dip in the Sturgeon River, and slept beneath the stars.  Our only mishap so far was one flat tire, 35 miles out our first day.  However, not all was lost, for, no more than five miles later, we glimpsed two moose in the swamps near Michigamme.  Here's to the U.P.!

Tally so far:

Flats  - 1
Moose - 2
Bald Eagle - 1
Coyote - 1
T.J. sighting (a friend from Marquette) - 1
Happy honks - 3
Hate honks - 1
*After day 2:  Winner - happy honks


Bike on!
Andrew and Ben